The other pyramids of Egypt

You can hear the wind and nothing else when at the Bent Pyramid

Did you know that the Great Pyramid of Giza is not in the middle of the desert?  I’m sure it was centuries ago, but now the city has expanded to the pyramid and The Sphinx looks out at a Pizza Hut.   It’s also the best place to go if you want to be mobbed by peddlers selling postcards, trinkets, camel rides and a bunch of other tourist stuff.

One of the many villages we passed along the way.

This didn’t sound fun for me.  

On my trip to Egypt, I wanted to savor the pyramids in silence and solitude to appreciate their greatness and wonder in my own leisurely way.  The good news is you can do this.  You just need to go to the OTHER pyramids.  It’s a bit of a drive, but it’s worth it.

BEST TOURIST TIP FOR EGYPT TRAVEL

 Before I begin, here’s a travel tip.  Don’t try to haggle your way through taxis unless you really, really love haggling. Instead hire a driver for a day or by the hour. 

My friend David and me by the Bent Pyramid

The owner of the houseboat we rented in Cairo (see previous blog) recommended a driver for us and it was the best decision we made that day.  Not only was he reasonably priced (approximately $7 USD an hour so we spent $50 for the day), but he drove us wherever we wanted, suggested places to visit and was flexible to make toilet and food stops along the way. 

He also did all the bartering for us with the pyramid guards on entrance fees and made sure we weren’t taken advantage of during our day.  Plus, you can store your extra water and stuff in the car rather than lugging it around all day long.  

The view of the Mud Pyramid in the distance from the Bent Pyramid

He took us places we probably would not have seen on our own – and we had a great time listening to his stories.

VISITING THE OTHER PYRAMIDS

Sure, the Great Pyramid of Giza is the most visited pyramid in Egypt, but there are other pyramids to see that are less touristy and just as fantastic.

Just don’t wear flimsy sandals like I did as the sand is hot (really hot) and sandals are not exactly great for climbing up the pyramids – which I didn’t know we would get to do.  The sand is also soft and fine -- like walking on a nice beach.

However, do remember to dress so you are covered if you're a woman to respect the Muslim culture (so no shorts and tanks).

The guard guiding us up the Bent Pyramid.  

The first pyramid we visited was the Bent Pyramid.  It’s located at the royal necropolis of Dahshur and is about 40 km south of Cairo.  It takes about an hour to get there as the roads are busy and bumpy.  You also travel through a bunch of little villages on your way – so it’s kind of cool to see the countryside.

Unlike the Giza pyramids, the Bent Pyramid is located in the middle of the desert just like you see in the movies and we were the only visitors there.  Except for two guards, there were no peddlers harassing us and it was quiet and peaceful. 

I’m not sure if you can tell from my photos, but the reason they call it the Bent Pyramid is that they had to switch up the angles while building it.  So the bottom is at a 54 degree angle and then the top is 43 degrees, making it look bent.

For an extra couple of Egyptian pounds, the guard let us climb the pyramid and take photos in the temple area. 

Even though this one is not a “perfect” pyramid, the visit there was my favorite of the day.  From the Bent Pyramid, you could see the Red and the Mud pyramids in the distance, but it was really the tranquility of being alone in the desert with these massive structures that was so amazing.  

GOING INSIDE THE RED PYRAMID

 From the Bent Pyramid, we visited the Red (aka the North pyramid).  This one was the largest of the three we saw that day and is the third largest Egyptian pyramid (the two at Giza are bigger).  But you have to give the builders credit because when it was made, it was the tallest man-made structure in the world (or at least historians believe it was). 

Our driver told us that the Red Pyramid was the first successful attempt at constructing a true pyramid.  The mud pyramid was a practice run and the Bent Pyramid didn’t quite work out the way they planned because of the extreme angle.

The coolest thing about this pyramid is you get to go inside and climb 200 feet down this narrow chute to the bottom.  Be warned that the chute is squishy (only 3 ft high) and you’ll need to crouch down the whole time. So if you are claustrophobic, then you might want to skip it.  I’m not, so I loved it. Plus, it was nice and cool inside.

Again this pyramid was practically deserted.  There were maybe six other people there who were just climbing out of the chute when we arrived. Bonus!

The little falafel place

GETTING TIRED AND HOT

 Our final pyramid of the day was the Step Pyramid.  I admit that by this time, I was hot and getting hungry as we had been looking at pyramids for hours. I also had a bad case of bronchitis on the trip (so bad my lungs hurt so much that it felt like my back was bruised) and my medication was no longer working.

But I’m glad I sucked it up as this place was where we got to see all the ancient Egypt hieroglyphics.   

Chowing down while taking in the Cairo skyline

Because we were the only visitors at the site, the guard let us into all the burial chambers to take photos even though the signs said not too. 

I really didn’t expect the images to  to be so clear and easy to see.  I had assumed they would be weathered and faint like the Native Indian drawings in Arizona. 

FINISHING UP THE DAY

 From there our driver took us back to Cairo and showed us the citadel and their oldest mosque.  They were beautiful, but honestly after 6 hours of pyramids, we were burnt out and our driver could see it. To end our journey, he brought us to a tiny falafel place where they make everything in front of you.  Then he drove us to the top Mokattam Mountain to watch the sunset while we ate our food.

It was the perfect way to end the perfect day of pyramid touring.