Cycling through Mallorca

Aahhh…the island of Mallorca.  Rugged coastal roads, quant villages and hills that will make your legs ache…what more could a cyclist want on vacation?

My cycling trip around Mallorca was one of the most incredible trips I’ve gone on in a while.  Being pressed for time, I opted to go with Duvine cycling adventures for this holiday and didn’t regret a second.  After planning and mapping out my own adventures for so long, I had forgotten how nice it can be to have someone take care of all those details for me – from the bike, to the hotels, to the amazing route.  They even knew where to find clean restrooms along the way (no more peeing with sheep like I did when cycling in Ireland).

The trip began with a champagne toast  and bike inspection in Alaro, and from there we pedaled our way to bigger and better surprises.  Day 1 consisted of a light ride through a couple of villages, backroads, numerous vineyards and some minor hills to get our legs accustomed to riding just in time for lunch in the town square of Campanet.

Lunch was an array of sandwiches and salad, which I admit sounds lame in print, but you have to remember this is the magical land of Mallorca where everything reeks of artisan yumminess.  And these sandwiches were our first taste of the deliciousness that was to come at every meal along the trip. 

With our bellies full and happy, we continued our cycling journey for another 10 or so kilometers through tiny roads that passed sheep and farms.  Then we arrived at our first hotel: the breathtaking San Brull. Our total milage for the day was 21 miles.

Really….it’s hard to say what was more breathtaking: the amazing ride through the country or the posh hotel Duvine had booked for us that night.  

Surrounded by a vineyard, it was a converted olive plant that was quite impressive – and made me realize that the money I paid for this tour was going to be worth every penny.  

So far,  every mile we cycled blew me away with it’s beauty and then the climax of the day was this amazing hotel.   I would have never been able to plan something this wonderful on my own. 

My room was a two story loft with a Jacuzzi tub – and I have to mention the chilled champagne and fruit waiting for me when I checked in.  Oh yeah…I was in heaven.  

And this was only the first day of the 5 night/6 day adventure.

Did someone say Whale Sharks?

Each spring between March and May, the staff, faculty and students of KAUST frolic around the professors of the Red Sea Research Center for the chance to go on a Whale Shark diving expedition. Sadly, I was not one of them – or rather I “tried” to be one them, but by the time I heard about this amazing adventure, they were already booked up.


Whale Sharks in the Red Sea from KAUST Red Sea Research Center on Vimeo.

Here’s why the trips are so popular:

• Whale Sharks are the largest fish in the sea and get up to 40 feet long.
• Even though they have the word “shark” in their name, they prefer to eat plankton and not people.
• They have super big mouths which are amazing to see. Okay, this is my own strange fascination, but really they are like the Cookie Monster of the sea. 
• They are currently listed as a vulnerable species so if you get the chance to see them in peaceful way, then take it.

Whale Shark photo taken by another person on the boat.

Those are the basic facts, but another cool reason I wanted to go is because the area around Saudi Arabia is not a place tourists can go, the coast off the Red Sea by Al Lith and Al Qunfidhah are newly discovered “hot spots” for my massive fish friends. And because the Red Sea Research Center at KAUST is studying them, they know where to find them (they’ve also tagged a bunch of them so can track them down).

But as I mentioned, I was too late to get in on the KAUST weekend expeditions so I had to come up with Plan B, which was to find a third party company that would do it. In other words, it was Facebook to the rescue.

 I was also hoping to convince a couple friends to go with me because I’m still not confident in all the Saudi etiquette and didn’t want to be the only Western woman on the boat.

Me looking a little tired and sun burnt

That’s when I came across Nomad Arabia. I learned about this company from another newbie like me who had done a camping trip with them at some ruins. Again, I was too late to that trip as it was happening that day, but I did see they had a Whale Shark Adventure coming up in two weeks – and I was told they were a “KAUST approved” operator (so safe and reliable).

Red Sea Coral

I signed up instantly.

Then I started my preparation which included: buying a rash guard shirt to protect me from the sun and keep me “modest” (Amazon.com), motion sickness pills just in case (got some from someone who did whale sharking the week before), and finding a floaty device to borrow as I’m not really a swimmer. Yes, I’m going off to swim with Whale Sharks…in the water…in a sea…and I’m a splasher more than a swimmer. Just a small issue, but not one that was going to stop me. Thankfully, one of my girlfriend’s is also not a strong swimmer and lent me her floaty device.

And to make the adventure perfect, I was able to convince two newbies from Ireland who just got their diving license and couldn’t wait to dive on their own. Also, because they are new like me, they missed out on signing up for the KAUST trips too. They also showed me where to buy my snorkel, mask and fins.

So did we see a Whale Shark? Yes!!! We spotted one just as it came to the surface and instantly everyone hopped off the boat to try to touch it. It tried to be patient with us and then I think it just gave up and swam away. Frankly, I would too if 10 splashing humans were trying to catch me.

Dawn on the Red Sea

The tour guides also brought us to two other places to dive/snorkel in the Red Sea too check out the sea life living in the coral. It was absolutely amazing. And the water is so warm here. There isn’t that 30 seconds of “burrrr” that you get when swimming in other places.

The other thing that was interesting was that all 9 people on the trip were ex-pats like us. They had come from Australia, Portugal and Poland. It was my first time meeting other Westerners who weren’t from KAUST and it was kind of nice. Made me feel like the world is less small knowing others were living just an hour away and adjusting to Saudi life just like me.

One of women even had her own Jeddah blog: LivinginJeddah.com

VIDEO MOMENT: Camels!!!!

Yes, I'm a tourist. I can't resist getting out my camera when I see a camel just wandering the desert.

Abayas: A Whole New Fashion Item to Explore

When coming to Saudi Arabia and starting at KAUST, I was concerned about the abaya and making sure I bought one the right one.

So I did some research- which mainly involved trying to see what women were wearing on the local news sites. From what I could gather, they were wearing plain black robes with plain black veils.

Oh, how I was wrong. There is nothing plain about them.

I did buy this one and totally love it.

In my month here, I've learned that the abaya/robe is more like a long jacket that you wear 
when you leave your home and they have some really nice ones. I had assumed they 
were all black and drab, but most of them are decorated -- and they don't have 
to be black.

I think black is like our standard corporate suit that never goes 
out of style, but many women wear ones that have color, some sort of decorative accent on them. 


I’ve been watching my co-workers and checking the abaya fashion sites (yes, I actually do this) and it seems chocolate brown was hot for the winter months. But now that the weather is getting 
really hot, I'm seeing off-white, lavender and other colored abayas on the Saudi girls.

Now I’m getting excited. This is a whole new fashion arena that I never knew existed.  

In addition to the colors, you also have different styles that range from the button down, to the zip up, to belted, to umbrella sleeved, to the pullover. There are work abayas and some for casual wear.

And they wear them with dress shoes and heels and not flat sandals like I thought.

Oh yeah. I'm kind of regretting giving away most of my stilettos now, but they probably aren’t practical for running around the campus.

Then there is the veil. I admit I'm still trying to master that part as I seem to get caught up in it, but without it, it looks like you forgot something.

I’m sure if I had to wear an abaya and veil everyday, I would be less excited, but I only have to wear it for shopping or dinners when I go to the city and
 traveling. So basically, when I put it on, it means I’m going to go someplace fun -- so I might as well look fashionable when I go.

All the abayas featured on this page are from Aab Collection, my favorite abaya shop so far.

Picnic under the moon

Midnight in some countries is witching hour, but not in Saudi. Here midnight is beach time - and I find it just as magical.

I don't know how they do it as I'm ready for bed at midnight, but if you drive along the corniche in Jeddah at that time, you will find the shores of the Red Sea packed with families. Yes, that's right. Families with kids and everything are awake and enjoying the evening.

...

So are they swimming?

No. Many of them are eating.

I'm learning quickly that they love their food and their sweets - which is dangerous for me as I too love good food and desserts. But it is how they are serving the food is what I love. They do it berber style.

They literally bring a carpet, roll it out by the sea and then serve the food or midnight snack on it. Some also bring these special cushions made for relaxing on. And they eat and talk and eat some more. It's all very relaxing under the moonlight and for some reason - probably because it's dark - even though the beach is crowded, you really don't noticed anyone else except those sitting around your carpet.

It's one of my favorite things - along with their coffee tradition. And if they combine the two, then it's perfection.

Fun and Food at Janadriyah

Saudi Arabia is so far been one amazing experience after another, and last weekend’s Janadriyah Festival was not the exception.  I have absolutely no regrets moving here. The people have been very welcoming and the country is one that needs to be lived in to truly appreciate the beauty it has to offer.

Me holding a hawk. So beautiful.

By back to this weekend and why I'm holding a hawk in the photo.

Janadriyah is a yearly event and it’s held in Riyadh. Approximately 30 of us from KAUST got up really early (like 3:30 a.m.) and took the plane to the city for the weekend to see what this festival that commemorates Saudi heritage, culture and history had to offer.

And that is why I'm holding a hawk.  In the past, hawks were caught and trained to hunt for the nomads living in the desert.  He was quite beautiful - and as nervous as I was.

My friend buying this leather bag that you put fat in for cooking.

Our group was given VIP treatment as we were allowed to tour the area a couple of hours before the masses arrived and enjoyed Arabic coffee and mint tea in the executive tent.

I was worried at first as I’m not a coffee drinker, but Arabic coffee doesn’t taste like regular coffee. It’s actually tasty – and I love the dates that come with it. I also learned that it's an insult not to accept the coffee when you come to a friend's home (good thing I like it) -- and it's very traditional to offer it as a welcome.

My friend enjoying some delicious Arabic coffee.

My favorite part of the trip was hearing about things from the perspective of a Saudi.

One of my friends here at the University had never been to Janadriyah, but while she’s very western, she had heard about the traditions from her parents and could explain them to me.

I think I got more out of the festival with her as she put things in context. I know I would have missed out on the spiced tea with condensed milk and I would have no idea what some of the things in the marketplace were for like the black leather bag in the photo above.  She said you store fat in it for cooking. Interesting.

Weird mushy grain stuff that was surprisingly tasty.

There were even some things that she had never experienced, like this strange mushy grain dish with honey on top. It was good and extremely filling, but neither of us knew what it was.

Saudi Arabia. Always full of wonderful surprises – even to those who are from here.

Traditional meal at one of the restaurants.

Photo Moment: Too many temptations

The Saudis love their sweets and cheesecakes…and sadly so do I.  It's going to be hard to resist these.

20/20: Advice for Expats Moving Internationally

So happy I decided to bring my cheesy collection of Starbuck's mugs.

They say hindsight is 20/20 and I agree. If I could take what I know now into a time machine and go back two months ago when I was packing, moving and frantically trying to sell stuff on Craigslist, I would do things differently.

First of all, don't listen to those people who tell you to sell everything and come with just your clothes. You'll find out when you arrive that they didn't do that and actually brought their stuff with them. Then they will look at you and ask why you didn't bring your personal items.

So here's the thing. If your company is paying for shipping, bring everything - or max out what they are willing to pay. If your new place is furnished (like mine is) still bring everything you can, including cheap things like Gladware and measuring cups. And definitely bring your rugs, artwork and all your little knick knacks.

Here's why. It took you years to collect that stuff to make your place look and feel like you. And even though you may be moving to a place that has great shopping, trying to replace everything you've collected over the years is not only expensive, but time consuming. Plus, what if you can't find anything you like?

I was speaking to another newbie like me who got rid of everything, and he agrees. Just replacing all the basics in the kitchen like measuring spoons, bowls, strainers, and cutlery takes a while and costs a hefty amount when bought in one go - and you tend to buy cheaper, crappier stuff than the items you practically gave away on Craigslist or to Goodwill.

Then there are the knick knacks like picture frames (they told me to just bring the photos and buy new ones here – expensive), table centerpieces, glasses, towels, sheets, the tray to put your utensils in and placemats.

I got rid of everything, but when I visit people's homes at KAUST and see these things, I realize that all they had to do to make their place “theirs” is to unpack. Me? I’m hiring taxis, running around the city on the weekend and spending money – and in some cases, I’m spending money on stuff I don’t even really like in order to turn my place into a "fake" home.

The other thing you need to bring is your sports stuff. If you mountain bike or road cycle, bring your pump, lights, helmet and everything else. I'm on my second pump here and the quality is not what I am used to (it doesn't fit properly so I have to hold it on). Every time I need to pump up my bike, I regret giving away my $60 pressure pump. I had asked people in advance and they told me I could get all this stuff here (wrong). You can kind of - if you just need a kicker bike to ride to the grocery store, but the true cyclists say they stock up on stuff when they go home.

The same goes for other sporty items. Bring your yoga mat, your camping gear, your hiking shoes and other things as you might not be able to find it as quickly as you think.

Another thing to throw into you shipment are any of your favorite brands. You might find them where you are or you might not. It's safer to just buy a little extra and throw them in a box. When they arrive 2 or 3 months later with the air shipment you'll be thankful for the care package you made for yourself. Stuff you might consider are toothpaste, shampoo, granola bars, and sports powders (if you’re into sports), hand sanitizer and anything else you normally use – especially if you are on a special diet. I also regret not bringing my Swifter as they don't have it here.

Again, the place you are going to might have this stuff - and I’m sure eventually I’ll find all this stuff here, but in the beginning, it’s good to have backup.

Of course none of these are life or death, but when you're already on a learning curve and trying to learn a new job, a new language and a new culture, sometimes it's nice to have what you know.


So this is my advice. Don't be foolish like me. My company was willing to airship up to 300 kgs of my personal belongings. I shipped less than 100 kgs – and that included my bike. I could have probably shipped everything I owned except my furniture and still have kilos to spare.

But keep in mind, I didn’t have that much stuff to begin with – and I wasn’t transporting a family. Pack rats and hoarders…you’ll be screwed, but if you aren’t, then take as much as you can. You’ll be happy you did.

Photo Moment: Shadows and Shade

On hot days like today, the sun silences everyone.  So peaceful.

Learning How to Shop Saudi-style

The malls in Saudi Arabia are incredible – and gigantic.  I’ve only been to the ones in Jeddah, but I’ve been told the ones in Riydah are just as fantastic.  

They are multi-leveled and have interesting things in them like a full-scale amusement park, a snow village where it actually snows fake snow, tropical lagoons, go-cart tracks and more.  The only thing they don’t have are movie theaters as those aren’t allowed here.  

And then you have the shops.  One of my friends asked if they have any shops they would know. The answer is "yes." They have them ALL.   There’s Sephora, Guess, Bebe, Boots,  Juicy Couture, Zara, Applebee’s, Burger King, Baskin Robbins and more.   They also have a few local shops, a bunch of designer shops and some British shops.  You name it; they have it…or they will have it soon.  I saw a sign for a Tim Horton’s coming soon at The Mall of Arabia.

So why so are the malls so amazing?  I think it’s because it’s hot here and the malls are air conditioned so people go there as a family and hang out.  And I mean they really hang out because they stay for hours.

The website says the malls are open from 10 a.m. until midnight, but with the prayer times, many of the actual shops close in the afternoon and reopen in the evening.  Then they are packed from 6:30 p.m. to closing. When I say packed, I’m talking Black Friday shopping packed. 

But while the shops are the same, the way you shop is different.

My first time in the mall, I picked out a bunch of clothes and wanted to try them on. Apparently you don’t do that as very few of the shops have change rooms. Surprise!

 At first I thought Saudi women simply guessed their size, then tried them on at home and brought back the ones they didn’t like.    

This wasn’t going to work for me.

First of all, I don’t enjoy shopping with crowds of people. Secondly, going to the mall is big endeavor as I take the bus from KAUST from 5 p.m. It takes an hour to get to the mall and then it only picks me up again at 11 p.m.  That’s a long time in a mall for someone who likes to get in and be done in 30 minutes.  And thirdly, I didn’t understand the return policies and some of the shops only give you 2 days to do exchanges. 

Not knowing how it’s done, I didn’t buy anything my first time to the mall. Instead I vowed to never go again and just buy everything online. Yes, that sounds drastic. But keep in mind, I just wasted 5 hours in a mall.  

It turns out there my drastic measures won't be necessary.  There is a secret to shopping in Saudi that nobody told me.  

Yes, you have to buy the clothes without trying them on in the shops.  But there is a place to try them on.  It’s in the restroom! 

I was wondering why the restroom was so big with these bare stalls on one side.  I thought they were for private praying or something (really, I knew nothing).  Nope, they are where you try on your clothes. 

So in summary…you buy the clothes, try them on in the restroom, and then return the ones you don’t like.  

PS  I haven’t bought shoes, so I don’t know how that works yet.

A warm welcome from old town Jeddah

Wednesday was my first day at work and already I got to visit Jeddah, which is the nearest city to KAUST and the second biggest one in the country with 4.1 million people.  

Jeddah is currently having its first cultural festival in the city’s old Balad area and I went to check it out with my co-workers.

So imagine me in my abaya – without the veil (so glad I bought this before I left Phoenix or I wouldn't be able to go) trying to follow a group of other women dressed in black through the busy streets of the city. 

Keep in mind that I'm not only new to the area and my Arabic is limited to "thank you" and "yes" -- or if I'm being fancy, I can say "Yes, thank you," but I'm also without my guardian techno angel -- aka my iPhone.

That's right.  I learned when I got here that my cell phone no longer works because I have an iPhone 4 so can’t get a Sim card for it -- and to buy the new iPhone 5 will be $800. So I've been walking around old school -- pre-smart phone.

In other words, I have no idea how to get back to KAUST if I did get lose my co-workers in the crowd, I can't talk to anyone, and I don't have GPS, any translation apps or a way to call for help.

Little did I know that I had nothing to worry about.  My group was also afraid of getting lost in the crowd so they basically were following me (the only blonde in the streets) to make sure they weren't left behind.  Guess I stood out a bit.

The Jeddah Heritage Festival they took me too was the first of its kind in the city and thousands of people were attending that week.  

I know it sounds strange that heritage festivals are a new thing, but some of Saudi co-workers said it’s because in the past, the country really focused on the future.  This makes sense as there are so many gorgeous modern skyscrapers and other architectural buildings in the city.   

However, this is about to change.

According to Prince Sultan Bin Salman, head of SCTA, this 10 day festival was a “turning point for cultural heritage in the Kingdom.” He told the media, they (meaning the government) are starting to focus on national tourism in Saudi Arabia.

Yay for me!  This works out perfectly because when I’m not at work, I’m basically a tourist.   

And it seems like I'm not the only one excited about this new cultural trend.  My group at work had arranged a private tour of the festival so that we could learn about the buildings, history and the stories behind the structures. 

My favorite one was the house with the tree (yes, it is actually known as that because it’s the only house with a tree).

I loved this house because the owners had stairs specially made so camels could walk right in the front door with the packages and food and take them up to the top floor of the home where the kitchen was.  Smart thinking!  The stairs were shorter and wider to make it easy for the camels to climb up and down them.

So was I shunned walking as a westerner in the streets?  Not at all.

In fact, there were countless times when I would walk past an elder and hear say in a quiet voice meant only for my ears, “Welcome, daughter” and then nod as they made eye contact.

It was humbling, touching and very much their culture to be privately welcomed by strangers like that.