Saturday, October 4, 2008

Gravitating to Gravitas

I must admit even though people have been talking about Gravitas Restaurant in Houston for months, I ended up there on Friday night by complete chance.

I was actually planning on checking out Table 7 in downtown Houston. But when I couldn't find parking and then discovered Allen Parkway was closed due to the Komen Race for the Cure, I ended up taking a mixed up way home that brought me to the front door of the little restaurant on Taft Road.

The first good thing I can say about Gravitas is that you don't have to worry about parking. That's because they have valet - and it's "pay what you want" so you don't have to dish out a ridiculous amount of money unless you really want to.

Secondly, it's really nice inside.

Chef Jason Gould describes the cuisine as rustic American. The same can be said about the interior. With its exposed red brick walls, polished concrete floors and warm wood tones, the restaurant is stylish -- but in a way that's casual and comfortable.

But enough about the décor. Let's talk food.

For me, if the restaurant cheaps-out on the bread basket or has stale bread, it's a sign that they are probably lacking quality in other areas that may not be as obvious.

But Gravitas didn't have to worry. They passed my bread test as soon as they brought out the heaping basket of crusty chunks that were perfect for dipping.

And dip you will.

Along with the bread comes a bowl of olive oil and crushed smoked nuts. I'm assuming you dip the bread into the oil and then into the nuts because that's what I did and it was incredible -- especially when paired up with one of their wines.

The menu is an eclectic mix of southern classics like Chicken Fried Steak to modern favorites such as Roasted Duck legs with beets. The sea scallops with cauliflower and pancetta will make you drool, and if you're a goat cheese lover, you've got to try the goat cheese tart with red onion jam.

But don't bother with the soup. Both the shrimp bisque and the soup of the day (carrot/ginger) were disappointing.

Great friends and great company

The one thing you won't find disappointing is the people. What I've been learning in Houston is that great restaurants attract great people, and Gravitas is no exception.
After comparing wine selections with the party at the table next to me, I ended up joining them for the course of the meal.

The night went on from there with animated discussions ranging from the political debate, to whether it was okay to litter train a dog, to if that was really Hunter Pence from the Astros sitting at the table behind us (yes, it really was him).

Gravitas is the type of place where food-loving friends gather and hang. The cuisine may not be the best in the city (I have been told that Hugos and Catalan is better), but the atmosphere makes it a worthy night out without the drama.

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