Only the Best Day in Ireland Ever

Each day in Ireland is better than the last. It’s still raining. In fact, it’s raining harder and is even windier than it was the day before, but if I wait for the sun to shine, I could be here until July. Not that it would be a bad thing, but I doubt my boss at the news station would keep my job for me.

Memorizing my cycling route for the day, I put on a couple extra layers (plus borrowed a yellow rain jacket from the hotel doorman) and headed out towards the mountains from the town of Kenmare. My goal today was to climb up to Moll’s Gap and then cycle back down through the Black Valley

Moll’s Gap is a mountain pass on the N71 between Kenmare and Killarney. It’s on the Ring of Kerry and the mountains I would be seeing are Macgillycuddy’s Reeks mountains. Don’t you love Irish names?

The gap is known for its panoramic views and you can see Ireland's largest mountain in the near distance, but I was going in honor of Moll Kissane. She’s the woman the gap was named after and she apparently ran an illegal pub there during the 1800s – which was pretty daring back in her day.

The road to Moll’s Gap is steep, but not ridiculous like some of the other hills I’ve cycled up in the past. But it is a steady uphill climb for about 20 km until you reach the peak.  What kept me going during the climb was the lure of chocolate. That’s because the guy at the Park Kenmare Hotel who gave me the map and the jacket told me there’s a tea shop at the top. They serve a fabulous chocolate biscuit cake that he always gets as a treat. I had never had chocolate biscuit cake, but it sounded yummy.

The scenery along the way was amazing. It consisted of green misty hills, winding roads, cattle and of course, sheep. There were hardly any cars going up the mountain, but that was probably because it was pouring rain at the time and really windy.

It was also so cold the raindrops felt like tiny pins of ice as they hit my face. But I was loving it – especially when I passed two other cyclists who looked more hard core than me (ha ha - even on vacation I'm competitve). They had fancier bikes and real rain gear unlike me who really should have invested in waterproof pants.

But really…there is nothing like seeing the country by bike. It was even more beautiful than I imagined and riding down the back roads, I felt as if I was an actual part of the whole adventure instead of watching it go by from the windows of a tour bus.

Before I knew it, I was at the top of the mountain and seeing the promised tea shop. My nose was running from the cold and I was dripping all over the café floor, but whatever – I was getting my chocolate biscuit cake before I continued onto part 2 of my day’s ride.

My next stop was Blackwater Bridge.

CRUISING THROUGH THE BLACK VALLEY 

Because I had reached the top of the mountain, I assumed the rest of my trip would be a breeze.

Well, it was breezy…a little too much. The wind was much stronger at the top and the rain was now coming at me from the side. Every once and a while a gust would hit and push me off the road towards the cliff edges. I guess the extra weight I put on from eating all those scones was not enough to keep me grounded.

No matter how hard it rained or blew, I wasn’t turning back. I was already soaked through and my padded biking pants were so heavy from the rain that it like wearing a soggy diaper. Besides, I only had 30 km more to go and then I could relax at the hotel.

Blackwater Bridge was worth the trek. I don’t think it’s famous for anything, but it’s pretty. There’s no real sign for it, but you know it when you see it – also, you would have already passed Blackwater Tavern and would be biking down Blackwater Road through the Black Valley.

After the bridge, I was on the home stretch. Gone were the rugged cliffs and panoramic views. I was now cycling down narrow tree-lined roads and passing tiny farms, churches and houses. Once I saw a golf course, I knew I was near civilization.

I pedaled into the hotel parking lot soaking wet and shivering. It was definitely time for a hot shower and then some R and R at one of the local pubs.  It was truly the best day ever.